I want to love Commis. I really do. And I expected to, based on the rave reviews of the restaurant everywhere (e.g., OpenTable, Yelp, Foodhoe). After two visits, I feel a little bit like a girl whose lover has turned out to be almost everything she wanted, but she can’t quite put her finger on why she can’t fall madly in love. I’m caught in a state of… “I really really like you but…”
We went to dinner last week at Commis for Gus’s birthday. I had in mind to try what I’ve heard is their new tasting menu, but I forgot to ask about it when I made the reservation, so instead we had the regular prix fixe menu: 3 courses at $59 and the wine pairing at $29. If you drink, definitely go for the wine pairing. They do a lovely job of pairing the wines and give fair pours so it’s definitely worth the money.
It’s more than three courses really though — because there are two amuse bouches — a fizzy aperitif, and a lovely slow-cooked egg (it’s been a slow-cooked egg on both of our visits, but with different accoutrements).
I’ll admit, this review is going to be a little lame, because I completely forgot to record all the different courses. Instead I’ll just let you feast your eyes on the pictures and hit the highlights. On all the dishes, the combinations of flavors sing — in particular the slow-cooked egg and the sardines (aren’t the sardines beautiful? and I actually hate sardines). The abalone was tender and beautiful, poached in brown butter and on a bed of farro, rich and lovely (I could have had even more of the brown butter, personally, but I am a butter nut).
My main course was lovely and tender (I want to say duck with chanterelles), but it was the only part of the meal that disappointed me a little bit… actually sort of bland. The texture was beautiful and the presentation creative, but the flavors didn’t excite me.
Dessert was beautiful and felt like little sparkles paired with cream on the tongue — goat cheese panacotta with citrus and raspberry…
I think this is the only thing that my disappointment with my main course (and a vague remembrance of my first visit feeling the same way) holding me back from “love love love” — because it didn’t blow me away. But I’m intrigued enough to keep going back. Already trying to figure out when to go again.
Commis Restaurant
3859 Piedmont Avenue
Oakland, CA 94611
(510) 653-3902
I think your first paragraph absolutely sums up my lone experience – and the rest of your review similarly follows my feelings. The appetizers are the stars and the entrees just get bogged down – too much protein. They have since introduced the tasting menu since I visited so I’ll be back. (I’m a Manresa veteran so I know the chef has it in him)